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Power Window Modification
Enabling power windows without the key in the "Run" position
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The Window "Fix" The Idea is to take power from the power seat circuit after it's breaker and use that to supply the window circuit in specific circumstances. I chose to use the left map light in mine because it seemed to be on at the times I wanted the windows active. The coil of the relay (Zettler #AZ972=1 Cl 2D) is paralleled across the lamp socket. Any 12VDC source could pull in the relay. The contacts are connected so the normally closed (NIC) through the common maintains the "normal" window feed via the key. The Alternate source (seat circuit) is always hot. When the coil of the relay is energized the window circuit is energized from the seat circuit to the normally open (N/0) to the common and into the window circuit. Everything is fused and map light "times out" and windows are dead foiling the thieves. Function is restored when alarm is disarmed, doors opened or map light is manually switched on.

Photo from Mick2500's gallery page You will have to fabricate 3 jumpers to allow thermal breakers to be lifted away from the fuse block and provide a location to "tap" seat circuit for power. This alternate source connects to the N/0 contact of the relay. The window's thermal breaker needs to supply the N/C contact in the relay. The common terminal from the relay completes the original circuit path. The leads from the light fixture are the pink and black at the socket. You will bare 1/4" of each and solder and tape your coil leads to them. The leads can easily be routed above the headliner down through the A pillar and up under the dash to a convenient location. I pulled the panel below the steering column and found some space to place the relay. The relay & socket can be purchased from any electronics store, radio shack etc. I purchased mine from all city electronic surplus in Sherman Oaks Ca. for less than $10. Rich White     (Great White on the TDR forum)

Another method posted to the TDRoundtable thread Would like to do the "window fix", but need help.

Blkdawdg wrote: Here's a different way but it will still work.


(1) Fuse can get these at any parts store for about $10.00.
(2) 4" 16 gauge wires
(1) male wire spade
(2) female wire spades
(1) 20 amp fuse

1. Attach one end of the 16 ga. wire to the end of the wire from the "Extend-a-fuse" and put a female spade connector on the other end.

2. Put a male spade connector on one end of the remaining wire and a female spade on the other.

3. Pull the silver circuit breaker for power windows from the fuse box and attach the wire from the "extend-a-fuse" to the top spade of the circuit breaker, and the female spade from the other wire to the bottom spade. ("top" and "bottom" are determined by the way the circuit breaker came out of the fuse box)

4. With the wire that is on the bottom spade of the circuit breaker, put the male end into the bottom hole from where the power windows circuit breaker came from.

5. Put the 20 amp fuse into the extend-a-fuse and plug the extend-a-fuse into the #16 "spare" fuse receptacle.

6. Tuck the circuit breaker under the fuse box and put the cover back on.

That should be it. The # 16 "Spare" is powered on with the key on the "ON" and "ACC" position. So your windows will work with the key in the "ON" or "ACC" position.

DodgeTorqueWagon added this:

I made 4 short jumper wires and switched the power seat and power window leads in the panel on the side of the dash. Now the seats don't move when I lean into the truck to get something off the seat and the windows work all the time.


Last update: November 13, 2002