Tips From Wirenut, GeneH, mark93, and others (posted to the TDR forum).
- Remove Dodge Cummins....etc. plate from valve cover
- Use an air gun to blow all loose material from the top of the cylinder head.
- Remove the high pressure fule line clamps (8mm wrench)
- Remove the #1 valve cover. Note: this provides room to get the fuel lines
out of the way while removing the injector body nut. The first three cylinder
fuel lines pass between 1 and 2 valve covers.
- Remove the large retainer nuts from the injectors ( 17mm wrench or deep
well socket, some have used a 15/16" deepwell socket)
- Remove enough fuel drain bolts and move the manifold out of the way (10
- Position fuel lines out of the way for each injector as you go (dont be
afraid to bend them a little, but not too much!)
- to get each injector out
- use a set of pliers (vise grips are a handy item) to grab the injector,
turn and wiggle it out. Some can be difficult. I had to use some force
for this step. The injector will turn some. They have a ball like a ratchet
uses to hold a socket. (as you will probably notice on the new injectors)
- If the injectors are hard to remove, put a nut on top of the injector
where the fuel line came off and pry up; they come out easily.
- I borrowed the injector puller and bore cleaning brush from my local
dealer for the weekend(will your dealer loan you tools). The puller made
it a snap to get the old injectors out. Number 6 injector had a lot of
surface rust on the shaft.
- I used the Cummins injector puller and all six took about 5 minutes.
- There is a "land" where the copper washer seats and make sure there is no
crud on it so the seal will be good. You have to use a light and crawl up
to see down NO.'s 5 & 6.
- When replacing the injector lightly oil the body insert it in the hole and
rotate the injector until the notch on the side of the injector finds the
depression in the head, when it is in position, the injector will not rotate
- (wouldn't hurt to leave one old one installed fro comparison until several
new ones are down the whole way)
- Put some never seeze on the injector body nut and torque the retainer nut
to 44 ft-lbs.
- Reinstall the lines on the pump fully (if you disconnect them)
- Finger tighten the high pressure fuel line nuts on the injectors.
- When you reinstall the injector drain manifold get all the little screws
to start significantly before the final tightening. They crossthread easily.
- Reinstall all the high pressure fuel line clamps
- Reinstall the fuel drain manifold
- Crank the engine until there is fuel coming out of all injector lines, then
tighten the high pressure fuel nut and start the engine. It may miss and run
rough for a few moments, then begin running smoothly.
- Don't forget your "Cummins" valve cover badge!
- kept the ends of the injectors covered while the fuel lines were off. Remember
to use new fuel drain manifold bolt washers and new dust washers,these fit
into the top of the injector body nut.
- if you didn't get new banjo fittings(recommended), make sure not to loose
the original ones.
Fuel adjustments after installing larger
#1 Oh yeah: I know they say to turn your fuel back to stock but, I wasn't happy
at the stock setting (not enough smoke and power!) so, set it back to stock,
then drive it after the installation. You may want to play with some different
pump settings. My fuel screw is approximately 1 turn in and diaphram stayed
at max. Have fun, hope this will help you and don't toast them tires to fast!
#2 When I installed my injectors I left the pump at the turned up settings
(max diaphragm, loose diaphragm spring, AFC screw turned in and full load screw
at about stock) for a trip around the block then turned the diaphragm back halfway
betweem stock and max (to cut smoke) as the only change. WOW!! Over the last
3 months I have arrived at the following settings for the following reasons:
1) AFC "smoke" screw backed off completely- Plenty of fuel at off idle and
low rpms already.
2) Diaphragm turned to max rate position-I greedily wanted all the midrange
power I could get.
3) Diaphragm spring very tight (star wheel one turn down from "no threads
showing"-I found I had, with the diaphragm at full rate, MUCH more fuel at
the low end than was needed but it would clear away very well by 15 psi. I
tightened the spring to match boost fuel more proportional to the need for
more fuel during midrange run up through the gears. At first I set it at "no
threads showing" but there was a "flatness" right in the middle of the RPM
band during acceleration, like you had to wait for the engine to catch its
breath. A turn down from that setting on the star wheel made the transition
from the bascic fuel setting to full power smooth and constant.
4) Full load screw about one turn in from stock-Not liking the idea that
there was some available top end power (and midrange as it turned out) that
was untapped I turned the screw a FULL TURN in. WOW WOW WOW. Lots of smoke
can be made while lugging the engine but it clears to a nice solid stream
of dark grey smoke at full power. By driving normal almost no smoke appears,
but when you need the power it is all there.
#3 The full load screw is in 1/2 turn from stock. I can see from Wirenut's
last post there are a lot of adustments that I havn't tried yet. These Power
Wagon Injectors really work. For my installation I borrowed the injector puller
and bore cleaning brush from my local dealer for the weekend(will your dealer
loan you tools). The puller made it a snap to get the old injectors out. Number
6 injector had a lot of surface rust on the shaft.
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Last Update: December 5, 2000